|May 3, 2014||Filled under Canning and Preserving, Frugal Tips and Tricks, Side Dishes, Vegetarian-Vegan|
My relationship with America’s favorite condiment is long and complicated—and, for that matter, so is ketchup’s culinary history.
Heinz controls 60 percent of the ketchup market in this country (as well as 40 percent of the proprietary seed market for tomatoes grown specifically for processing). For most Americans, Heinz is to ketchup as Kleenex is to facial tissue—it’s the household name, perhaps even the platonic ideal. When Jeffery Steingarten (I love that guy!) set out on an epic ketchup tasting for his 1992 article “Playing Ketchup,” the categories he created to judge each product were “Worse than Heinz,” “Heinz,” “Better than Heinz,” and “Not Really Ketchup.” I certainly understand this logic; the flavor of classic Heinz is always what I’m expecting when I pour ketchup on anything, and to me it’s still the best-tasting bottled variety out there. But it’s not the go-to in my house anymore. To avoid the combination of high fructose corn syrup and corn syrup found in the current classic recipe, I’ve made the subtle shift to homemade ketchup.
- 1 (28-oz) can whole tomatoes in purée
- 1 medium onion, chopped
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 tablespoon tomato paste
- 2/3 cup packed dark brown sugar
- 1/2 cup cider vinegar
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
Purée tomatoes (with purée from can) in a blender until smooth.
Cook onion in oil in a 4-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat, stirring, until softened, about 8 minutes. Add puréed tomatoes, tomato paste, brown sugar, vinegar, and salt and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until very thick, about 1 hour (stir more frequently toward end of cooking to prevent scorching).
Purée ketchup in 2 batches in blender until smooth (use caution when blending hot liquids). Chill, covered, at least 2 hours (for flavors to develop).
RECIPE BY GINA MARIE MIRAGLIA ERIQUEZ
- START TO FINISH: 2 HRS
- 1 medium onion, chopped
- 2 cups water
- 3 1/2 cups fresh or frozen cranberries (not thawed; 1 lb)
- 1 (2-by 1/2-inch) strip fresh orange zest
- 1/2 cup plus 2 tablspoons packed light brown sugar
- 1/2 cup granulated sugar
- 1/2 teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder
- 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
Simmer onion in water in a 3- to 4-quart heavy saucepan, uncovered, until tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Add cranberries and zest and simmer, uncovered, until berries are collapsed, about 10 minutes. Discard zest. Purée berries in a food processor, then force through a large sieve into saucepan and discard solids.
Stir in sugars, five-spice powder, and salt and simmer, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes, then cool completely.
RECIPE BY TRACEY SEAMAN
Source: Gourmet Magazine and Adam Houghtaling